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Deepskystacker Settings

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Deepskystacker Settings

This group is designed to "pool" the knowledge of the many fine astrophotographers on this site and to strip away some of the mystery of the MANY Deepskystacker settings. No one seems to have tried them all!

Members: 19
Latest Activity: Jun 2, 2015

Discussion Forum

How to Get All Subframes to Stack, Regardless of Score?

Started by Jeffrey P Nunnari. Last reply by Jeffrey P Nunnari Sep 7, 2013. 11 Replies

I need some help, here. Does anyone know how to get all subframes regardless of their scores to stack in Deepskystacker? I have tried the "Register Above a Threshold" feature and set the threshold…Continue

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Comment by Al McAdam on April 24, 2011 at 8:04am
Say I shoot two dark flats ie 15" at iso 1600 and then I can designate one of them as a dark. I don't see the difference.
Comment by Sander Pool on April 24, 2011 at 6:45am
I'm pretty sure a google search or even a read of the DSS site will answer that but a dark flat is a dark with the same exposure and temperature as your flat.
Comment by Al McAdam on April 24, 2011 at 6:38am
Could someone please explain to me the difference between a DARK and a Dark-flat. I prepare the Dark-flat by taking an exposure with the lens cap on for the same length of time that I will be taking individual images. I take a bias by shooting 1/1000th image of the lens cap and I take a white sheet of paper and put it over the scope during the day for the same length of time I will be imaging at night when possible. Thanks in Advance Al
Comment by Al McAdam on April 1, 2011 at 4:34am
I wondered if an images had NC under Star in the headings but I stacked them anyway and there was a star count as the images were being processed so maybe NC doesn't mean No Count.
Comment by Al McAdam on March 28, 2011 at 8:07pm
I shot some images of m 42 tonight with my DSLR set at 24" at ISO 800, also 2 dark flats (24" at 800) plus one bias 1/1000 at 800. When I try to set the star threshold at 300 the pictures dark flats and bias all uncheck. Does that mean perhaps there was a bit of star trailing in those images?
Comment by Al McAdam on March 23, 2011 at 1:47pm
Thanks Starhopper, I have a reducer but I nor the dealer knows what it is, he thinks between a 5 and a 6. All the box said was Telecompressor Made in Japan. It was in the back of a cabinet at the dealer's and was stock from the previous owner. It fits inside my camera adapter and it seems to work. Jerome and I have been working on some other problems like proper polar scope alignment, balance, finder scope and mount adjustment. I didn't realize I had tighten the bolt that holds the head on the tripod too much so I used to move the tripod legs when it was out. Jerome loosened the bolt and now the movements are like butter. Now if we can just get rid of this blasted snow storm I can try out all these items.
Comment by Al McAdam on March 19, 2011 at 7:18am
Thanks Marc, So I can put a small library of flats together and use you when I need them. When I was shooting M 42 the other night I shot 12 light frames at 5" at 1600 ISO and I set the star threshold at 300 and it was the first time I had ever had more than 1 frame stacked as it did all 12. I think that using the flat gave me a bit of colour so I was happy. I would have done longer exposures but I was having a bit of trouble tracking and the star trails were abviously too great for the program but I am having a good time working out one problem at a time. I just switched from a refractor to the C8 SCT and there is lots to learn. Thanks Al
Comment by Marc Basti on March 19, 2011 at 6:31am
Al, DSS has a good explanation on shooting the calibration stuff under FAQ. If you can't take flat frames every time you shoot, the flat frames you have usually work ok. Providing the camera orientation and the imaging train is the same the flat frames will clean up the vignetting. Dust motes-no- they will move around, but a clone tool can usually fix that. The bias will take care of the temp thing. You are not going to see a ton of difference w/temp changes (some) so maybe take seasonal bias frames to get a rough ambient temp. Marc
Comment by Emil Kolbert on March 19, 2011 at 4:38am
The flats should be taken at the same temperature in the ideal case, if not you have to take also bias to compensate for the temperature difference.
In case of flats it is VERY important to keep the same orientation of the camera because with flats you will have the "finger print" of dust particles on the sensor of filter, also the focus must be the same if not the diameter of this finger print will change.
Comment by Al McAdam on March 18, 2011 at 8:56pm
Thanks Starhopper, If I don't take a flat during the daytime can I use one from another day or is it temperature sensitive?
 

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