Orion Nebula 02-09-2015

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Comment by Russ Ruggles on February 13, 2015 at 11:55am

Phil

The Hyperstar is a good idea in my opinion. The camera.... maybe, maybe not. If he'll let you try before you buy then give it a test run or three. I'm all about one step at a time. That combo will set you back a bit where as they sell all sorts of camera adapters for the HS and you could easily try you DSLR for a while then buy another adapter for another camera. That is one reason I bought the 2" IDAS filter instead of the clip.

Comment by Philip A Cruden on February 13, 2015 at 11:12am

Thanks Marc, Lots to learn but I am having a lot of fun too. The weather for the past two weeks have been great here and it looks like more great weather on the way so I will for sure be out. Cheers, Phil

Comment by Philip A Cruden on February 13, 2015 at 11:09am

Hi Bob, Thanks so much for chiming in on the filter...........more good information. Thanks for the compliment on Orion. Cheers, Phil

Comment by Philip A Cruden on February 13, 2015 at 11:08am

Hey Russ, Dean at Starizona for the longest time has been trying to sell/set me up with the Hyperstar and one of the Atik CCD imagers. I would really love to get into that set-up but it will have to wait for now. I am going to have a look into the filter you suggested. Cheers, Phil

Comment by Marc Basti on February 13, 2015 at 10:38am

Philip, nice capture and processing, that's a pretty pic. Marc

Comment by Russ Ruggles on February 11, 2015 at 5:18am

Ah yes, CentralDS. I've looked at those often. I image using the Hyperstar system for the most part which works better with a camera that doesn't project into the optical path. Ideally a round camera body works the best but I've been able to minimize the odd diffraction spikes caused but the EOS camera body and cables with creative cable management. Their design increases the camera body size and places the connection jacks on the edges which compounds the diffraction issues. The one camera that might work for me is the CDS600D - the CDS1000D would be a step backwards - but if I remember right they are pretty proud of those and charge quite a bit more. If I was wanting a Cooled OSC with almost the same size sensor as an EOS DSLR I'd buy the QHY12 instead.

Fred, has valid points however shooting in north Phoenix without some type of LP filter can be challenging to say the least. We can see the glow of the lights of Phoenix all with way up here in Flagstaff. If we only still lived in a world were people weren't afraid of the dark we imagers would have a far easier time gathering our photons.

Comment by Philip A Cruden on February 10, 2015 at 3:55pm

Thanks Fred, Thanks also for the information. My T1i currently is unmodified so with that I am always looking for a solution for better imaging with it other than a full modification. Down the road I would like to get into CCD imaging when the timing is right so for now I am turning to filters. Thanks again for your input.

Comment by Philip A Cruden on February 10, 2015 at 2:22pm

Thanks so much for all that great information Russ. I do have a light pollution filter made by Astronomic but I do not like it at all................way to much blue. I am going to have a look see at the IDAS LP D1. You and I have almost the same system so it would make sense for me to get the same filter that you like and work with. Cheers for taking the time to write all this great information. I will be out tonight as soon as I can pick my next test target:) Phil. PS have you had a look at this http://www.centralds.net/cam/

Comment by Russ Ruggles on February 10, 2015 at 1:32pm

Are you using a light pollution filter? I'm using Hutech's IDAS LPS-P2 which has been replaced with the LPS-D1 ( a tad better based on specs) These filters will block out IR/UV as well as typical LP caused street lights
It's been my experience that Astronomik filters add a color cast so I quit using them. However I don't think that luminance filter will add much of anything.

Your sensor should already have IR/UV block incorporated in the bayer layer so you may not need this. I suspect that filter is more for Full Spectrum modifications. It's been my understanding that IR and maybe UV will cause a softer focus in your images. Looking at your images I think your focus it pretty sharp therefore you wouldn't see much of any improvement.

Keep in mind that LP filters will "allow" you to image longer without washing out your subframes as well as "force" you to image longer to gather the photons needed to make a nice image. Imaging longer in duration will cause uncooled camera like ours to heat up and add noise to the image. It's a constant battle of noise verses signal that I've learned to balance based on ISO, duration and brightness of the DSO. Plus using the right number of each file for the calibration process can be very beneficial. This is all part of the "next step" as you learn the limits of your equipment and discover where it excels.

I suggest you save your money on this one and invest in a nice IDAS LP D1 filter if you don't have something similar. Or, make the leap to cooled CCD :). No, I haven't done that myself but I plan to in the near future.

Russ

Comment by Philip A Cruden on February 10, 2015 at 11:20am

Thanks Russ, I am learning a lot along the way and of course a lot more to learn in the future. I am really enjoying all of it. I came across this the other day. Seeing as my T1i is not modified I was thinking about getting one.
http://www.optcorp.com/astronomik-luminance-filter-canon-eos-aps-cl... any thoughts?

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